No Water? It Might Be Your Well: The 2025 Winter Troubleshooting Guide for PA & MD Homeowners

Ray Wenger
Dec 19, 2025
8 min read

It is the call no homeowner in Adams County or Carroll County wants to make at 5:00 AM in January: "I turned on the faucet, and nothing came out."

For residents in Southern Pennsylvania and Northern Maryland, losing water in the winter is rarely a municipal issue; it is almost always a private well issue. With the 2025-2026 winter forecast predicting a volatile "La Niña" pattern characterized by wet conditions and sharp temperature swings, the risk of well system failure is higher than usual.

At Wenger Services LLC, we have serviced wells from Littlestown to Sykesville for over 20 years. We know that when the temperature drops below freezing along the Mason-Dixon line, your well pump system faces threats that go beyond simple ice. From frozen pressure switches to the dangers of "traffic compaction" on your lawn, this guide covers everything you need to know to keep your water running this winter.

The Two Types of Well Systems: Know Your Risk Level

Before you can protect your water supply, you need to identify what equipment you actually have. In our service area of York, Adams, and Baltimore counties (Southern Pennsylvania and Northern & Western Maryland) we typically see two types of well pump configurations. Your risk of freezing depends entirely on which one you own.

1. The Jet Pump (High Freeze Risk)

If you hear a hum or a click coming from your basement, garage, or a small shed in the yard when you run water, you likely have a Jet Pump. These pumps are mounted above ground and pull water up from the well using suction.

The Vulnerability: Because the pump housing holds water and sits in an unheated or semi-heated space (like a garage or well house), it is the first thing to freeze. If the cast iron casing of a jet pump freezes, the expanding ice can crack the housing, necessitating a full replacement.
The Symptom: You might hear the motor humming but no water is moving, or you might see water pooling around the base of the pump where the casing has cracked.

2. The Submersible Pump (Moderate Freeze Risk)

This is the most common system for modern homes in Southern PA and Maryland. The pump itself is located deep underground near the bottom of the well, submerged in water.

Since it is hundreds of feet down, the pump itself will never freeze.

The Vulnerability: The weak point is not the pump, but the Pitless Adapter. This is the brass fitting where the water line turns 90 degrees to exit the well casing and travel horizontally into your house. This connection sits roughly 3 to 4 feet underground.
The Risk: In Adams and York Counties, the frost line (the depth to which the ground freezes) is legally defined as 36 inches. However, in severe winters with no snow cover (snow acts as insulation), frost can penetrate deeper, reaching the pitless adapter or the water line entering your foundation.

The #1 Cause of "No Water" in Winter: The Frozen Pressure Switch

Often, when a customer calls us saying, "My well pump is frozen," the pump is actually fine. The culprit is a tiny, 1/4-inch tube connected to the pressure switch.

The pressure switch is the "brain" of your well system. It tells the pump when to turn on (low pressure) and when to turn off (high pressure). It senses this pressure through a small tube or nipple. Because this tube is so narrow (often 1/4 inch), the water inside it sits static and freezes much faster than the water in your large 1-inch supply pipes.

The Scenario:

False Off: The water in the tiny tube freezes while the system is at high pressure (pump is off). You run a shower. The pressure in your house drops, but the frozen tube "tricks" the switch into thinking the pressure is still high. The pump never turns on. Result: No water.
False On (Dangerous): The tube freezes while the pump is running. The pump fills the tank, but the switch never senses the pressure rise because of the ice block. The pump runs continuously, potentially burning out the motor or blowing a relief valve.

Pro Tip: If you have water pressure but your electric bill is skyrocketing, your pump might be running 24/7 due to a frozen switch. Check your system immediately!

The Invisible Threat: Traffic Compaction and the Frost Line

One of the most overlooked causes of frozen well lines in our region is driving over the lawn.

In rural areas like Taneytown or Hanover, it is common to drive trucks or tractors across the yard to deliver firewood or access a barn. However, you must know where your underground water line runs.

Soil contains air gaps that act as natural insulation. When you drive over the soil in winter, you compress it, removing those air gaps. This allows the cold to penetrate much deeper into the ground, often driving the frost line down from 36 inches to 50 inches or more. If you drive over your buried water line in January, you are actively pushing the frost down toward your pipe.

The Rule: Mark the path of your water line from the well head to the house and keep all vehicle traffic off that path from November to March.

5 Steps to Winterize Your Well System

Prevention is always cheaper than an emergency service call. Here is your checklist for the 2025 season.

1. Seal the Well Cap

Go outside and inspect the metal cap sticking out of your yard. Is it cracked? Are the bolts loose? Cold air is heavy; it will sink down into the well casing like water. If your cap isn't sealed tight, sub-zero air will fall down the hole and freeze the pitless adapter. Ensure the cap is tight and the conduit (where the wires go in) is not broken.

2. Insulate the "Dog House"

If you have an above-ground jet pump in a well house or shed, insulation is non-negotiable.

Do: Use foam board insulation or fiberglass batts to line the walls and ceiling of the pump house.
Don't: Rely solely on insulation for heat. Insulation only retains heat; it doesn't create it. You need a heat source.

3. Install a Thermostatically Controlled Heat Source

For outdoor pump houses, install a specialized "pump house heater" or a simple heat lamp connected to a thermo-cube. A thermo-cube is a plug adapter that automatically turns on power when the temperature drops below 35°F and turns it off when it rises above 45°F. This ensures you aren't wasting electricity on warm days, but the pump is protected during those Littlestown cold snaps.

4. The "Dripping Faucet" Trick (With a Caveat)

You have likely heard that dripping a faucet prevents freezing. This works because moving water is harder to freeze than standing water.

The Warning: If you are on a Septic System (which many well owners are), be careful. A constant trickle of water can cool down your septic tank, preventing the bacterial action that generates heat. In extreme cases, this can cause your septic line to freeze.
The Solution: Only use the drip method during extreme cold nights (below 10°F) and ensure you are running enough water to keep the pump cycling occasionally, rather than just a slow trickle.

5. Check Your Check Valve

A failing check valve can allow water to drain back down into the well when the pump turns off. This leaves the upper pipes empty. If small amounts of water remain and freeze, they form ice plugs. If you hear water "splashing" back down the well after the pump shuts off, call 717-640-6442 (https://www.wengerservices.com/well-services) for a repair immediately.

What To Do If Your Well Freezes (And What NOT To Do)

If you wake up to no water, don't panic. But more importantly, do not use a blowtorch.

Every winter, we see homeowners melt their PVC piping or damage sensitive pressure switches by taking a propane torch to their plumbing. Modern well systems use a lot of plastic components that will melt long before the ice thaws.

Steps to take:

Turn off the power to the pump at the breaker. If the blockage clears suddenly, you don't want the pressure to spike.
Inspect the pressure switch. If the small tube leading to it is frosted, you can try warming it gently with a hair dryer or a heat gun on a low setting.
Call a Professional. If the freeze is underground or you cannot locate it, you need professional equipment. At Wenger Services, we have specialized thawing tools that can clear lines safely without destroying your pipes.

The Cost of Neglect: 2025 Well Pump Pricing

Why is maintenance so critical? Because inflation has hit plumbing hardware hard. In 2025, the average cost to replace a well pump in our region can range from $900 to over $2,800, depending on the depth of the well and the horsepower of the pump.

A frozen jet pump housing often cannot be patched, it must be replaced. A burst pitless adapter requires an excavator or a pump hoist to pull the system up from underground. These are expensive, invasive repairs that are almost always preventable.

Conclusion: Don't Let Winter Win

Living in Pennsylvania and Maryland means dealing with winter, but it doesn't mean dealing with a lack of water. A few minutes of inspection this November can save you thousands of dollars in January.

Need help winterizing? Whether you need a well system inspection, a new pressure tank, or emergency thawing services, Wenger Services LLC is here 24/7. We are family-owned, locally operated, and trusted by over 700 of your neighbors.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. Can I use automotive antifreeze to winterize my well pump?

Absolutely not. Automotive antifreeze (ethylene glycol) is toxic and can contaminate your drinking water supply, posing a severe health risk to your family and pets. If you need to winterize a jet pump for a vacant property, you must use food-grade propylene glycol, which is non-toxic and safe for plumbing systems.

2. How deep are water lines buried in Southern PA?

Local plumbing codes in Adams and York Counties typically require water lines to be buried at least 36 inches deep to stay below the frost line. However, in rocky areas where digging is difficult, some older lines may be shallower, increasing the risk of freezing.

3. My well pump is running, but I have no water. What is wrong?

This often indicates a frozen pipe between the pump and your house, or a frozen pressure switch that is failing to read the system pressure correctly. Turn off the pump immediately. If the pump continues to run against a blockage (ice), it can burn out the motor or build up dangerous pressure levels.

4. Should I wrap my well pump in insulation?

If you have an above-ground jet pump, yes. You can use a specialized fiberglass pump cover or build an insulated box. However, you must ensure there is still a heat source (like a heat lamp) inside the enclosure, as insulation alone cannot stop freezing if the temperature drops low enough for long periods.

5. Why does my water smell like rotten eggs in the winter?

While not directly related to freezing, winter changes in the water table can disturb minerals in your well. The "rotten egg" smell is usually hydrogen sulfide gas. If you notice this or a salty taste (which can come from road salt runoff entering shallow wells), contact us for(https://www.wengerservices.com/water-treatment).

Wenger Services LLC – If it's Water, it's Wenger. Serving Adams, York, Carroll, and Baltimore Counties. Call us 24/7 at 717-640-6442.